Marios Restaurant. Opened in 1948, Mario's has to be one of the last extant supper clubs of its era. It's clubby but not pretentious and old-school cool without even trying. This is the kind of Italian joint where you're served a veggie and relish tray as soon as you sit down, with pickles.
Tableside cooking is always a treat and the chef who puts the final touches on your veal Olympic or dessert flambe will make you feel glamorous just for being there.